Most visitors step off the ferry at Patitiri, look up at the hill behind the port and wonder what the cluster of white houses on the ridge is. That is Chora, signposted on the island simply as The Old Village. It was the capital of Alonissos for centuries, it was left almost empty within a single generation, and today it is one of the most atmospheric places to spend an afternoon in the Sporades. This guide explains what happened here and how to plan a visit that goes beyond a quick photo stop.
A capital built on a hill for a reason
The position of the village is no accident. According to the Greek National Tourism Organisation, the settlement was built on top of a hill for protection from pirate raids, and its castle was constructed by the Venetians in the 14th century and reinforced during the Ottoman era. The traditional layout follows the same defensive logic: closely built houses with stone walls, grouped around a small fortress that sheltered the inhabitants against enemies and pirates.
The island itself has changed names more than once. In antiquity it was known as Ikos, and from the Middle Ages until the 19th century it was called Liadromia. The name Alonissos was given in 1838, when the island was identified with ancient Halonnesus, an identification that later research considered mistaken.
9 March 1965: the day the village emptied
The turning point in the modern story of Chora is an earthquake. On 9 March 1965 the island suffered serious damage, and the village that had been inhabited continuously until then lost its role. Many residents did not return to the hilltop. They settled instead in Patitiri, next to the port, which grew into the main town and remains the place where ferries, catamarans and hydrofoils arrive today.
For years the old capital stood largely quiet. Its revival came gradually, through locals and artists who restored the old houses with respect for tradition. The national tourism board now describes the village as an open museum of traditional architecture and island culture, and the rebuilt houses are used mainly for tourism.
What to see when you walk in
There is no checklist of ticketed monuments here. The appeal lies in the place as a whole, and it rewards slow walking.
- The castle ruins. The remains of the Venetian fortification sit at the highest part of the settlement. On a clear day the view reaches Skopelos, Skiathos and Mount Pelion on the mainland.
- The lanes. Cobbled streets wind between whitewashed houses, with steps instead of slopes in many places. Getting slightly lost is part of the visit.
- Small shops and cafes. Workshops and boutiques sell handmade jewellery, ceramics and textiles, and the cafes are placed to make the most of the open view over the sea and the neighbouring islands.
- Summer events. Local associations organise cultural events during the season. The best known date is 15 August, the feast of the Dormition of the Virgin, celebrated with local dances and traditional dishes.
Getting up the hill
Chora lies in the southern part of the island, above Patitiri. There are three realistic ways to reach it. The first is the local KTEL bus, which runs between Patitiri and the Old Village. The second is a taxi from the port. The third is your own wheels, which makes sense if you also plan to combine the village with beaches or with the northern part of the island on the same day.
Alonissos is a long, narrow island, roughly 20 km from end to end and about 4.5 km wide, so distances are short but the roads are hilly. Travellers who want that flexibility usually arrange a rent a car Alonissos booking before they arrive. One local option is Alonnisos Travel, a family business based at Patitiri port and operating since 1987, which rents cars, scooters and ATVs and also handles ferry tickets and villa stays from the same office.
Practical tips for the visit
A few simple choices make the difference between a hot, rushed walk and a memorable evening.
- Choose your hour. Early morning and late afternoon are the comfortable times in summer. Midday heat on stone steps is tiring.
- Wear proper shoes. The streets are cobbled and steep in places, with many staircases.
- Leave time to wander. The street plan is maze-like, so allow more time than the size of the village suggests.
- Stay for the light. The village faces open sea, which is why many visitors time their walk to end with a drink or dinner as the sun goes down.
The local guide to Alonissos Old Town adds more detail on the churches, the old threshing floors and the tavernas around the central square, and is worth reading before you go.
Why the Old Village still matters
Alonissos is best known internationally for its marine park, established in 1992 to protect the Mediterranean monk seal and other wildlife. Chora tells the other half of the island’s story: how a community lived on a fortified ridge for centuries, how one earthquake moved it down to the sea, and how the same houses were brought back to life by people who cared about them. An island of just over 3,000 residents has managed to keep both its nature and its old capital intact, and an unhurried evening on the hill is the easiest way to understand why visitors return.
Sources
- Greek National Tourism Organisation (Visit Greece), The old capital reborn through love. https://www.visitgreece.gr/en/experiences/nature/culture/old-village-of-alonnisos
- Wikipedia, Alonnisos. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alonnisos
